Monarch AN-J-3 by Dave Sheeley (Maverickson)

Discussion in 'Repros' started by Skip, Jul 6, 2018.

  1. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    A while back I arranged for Dave to repair my Original Fried Ostermann M422a which had a broken and rotted out collar hook area, before putting it up for sale. A little bit before we'd been discussing the F.O. and its unique details, we'd been talking about AN-J-3a's, and I said I was thinking of finding one without the mouton collar, an AN-J-3. Dave said he's always thought about doing one, so after a little discussion I said lets do it.

    Fast forward quite a few months and the build began in earnest after sourcing various items required for the build. Dave has acquired, as he mentioned in another thread, quite a number of machines that allow him to build a jacket exactly how it would have been completed by Monarch itself. Two of special interest to me that he has told me about; is a button hole machine, and you can see by the detail of the button holes in the attached images that this machine is quite something; the other being a french seam machine, which will allow a complete jacket and all joins to be stitched in this way if required. I don't quite understand how each machine works but Dave has done his best to explain the details of what it does and whats involved, and it doesn't appear easy. Dave has had to setup each machine, mostly by himself, and understand how it works, and then configure it so its work is consistent to the task set by it.

    In the process of discussion of my measurements, Dave has a collection of other Monarch Jackets, one being John Z. Colt's original AN-J-3a being a size 40 among his collection and tweaked the pattern for the overall fit that would suit the jacket to my dimensions. One does not understand how much thought and work goes into making a bespoke jacket, it is not just a trade but an art. Dave included in the discussion a lot about his reasoning and the history of the jackets and the people who flew in them. It really lends a sense of depth to the build.

    IN the last two months my number in the queue has come up and he is ready to put all the elements together to make the jacket. Really looking forward to this, but in the mean time I thought I'd share some pics of the progress so far.

    The hides are russet goat 1st pic and have been dyed seal brown 2nd pic. This will allow the lighter russet to patina and wear through, something I like.

    Russet Goat Hides.jpg

    004.JPG

    images below are different elements of the pattern, notice the stitching and the button hole of the pocket. Stitching is very close to the same colour and size as originally used by Monarch.
    002.jpg

    003.jpg

    Monarch AN Pocket .jpg
     
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  2. Smithy

    Smithy Well-Known Member

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    Bet you're excited about this Matt, the hides look great!
     
  3. Dr H

    Dr H Well-Known Member

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    I've gone for goat too, Matt (a similar shade of this warmer brown with olive drab stitching).
     
  4. B-Man2

    B-Man2 Well-Known Member

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    Great post . This is a new area for me and I find the entire process of making an authentic reproduction fascinating.
     
  5. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

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    Outstanding!!
     
  6. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Certainly am Tim, been looking for an original for ages without much luck and by chance just bumped into Dave when he emailed me about the Fried Ostermann. The price is quite good too. Dave involves you in his work by keeping you abreast of developments in construction and also the machines he's using at any given period. I noticed Brett said the same when Steve was making his jacket. Its a pity you don't get the same from some of the other manufacturers, but I can see that is a lot of extra work that could be spent on making the jacket, especially when you've got a long list of orders to fulfil. Still a nice touch though.

    What jacket you going for Ian? The OD will look good too, I have it on a lot of my other jackets, where there is enough of a shade to make it visible but not stand out overly, well balanced in other words. More than likely Dave will be using the machine he mentions below on your build, quality stitching. I've gone for Monarch dull purple knits and a royal blue double layered rayon lining, should look quite striking.


    Just a note on the button hole stitching, Dave's button machine has been setup by him to make the buttons as they were done by Monarch. See the difference in the pics below of my BK AN-J-3 and the one Dave made for this jacket. BK's are good and strong, but Dave's has the thread thickness / count and look rather accurate, as it just appears more fuller as you can see, bare in mind the BK is 5 years old so not sure what they are using now.

    FullSizeRender.jpg

    Monarch AN Pocket .jpg

    More updates from Dave himself:

    "the thread used on your jacket is a near perfect match for what Monarch originally used on their USN and civilian type jackets. But for what ever reason not on their USAA A-2 type jacket and where they used a OD color. My personal preference is the reddish brown (BURGUNDY) colored thread like used on your jacket. like you said it goes well with seal brown and those Monarch knits.

    Just set up one of latest machines (double needle) that Monarch used to make the French Seams on their civilian jackets. I’ll use that same color exclusively on that machine. After all, that machine is going to be building civilian type Monarch jackets exclusively. Just set machine up last week. See first attached example.

    That is the exact machine Monarch used to make those sleeves originally seen last. Look close and you can see that burgundy color thread there too.

    French Seam close ups:
    French Seam Close Up.JPG
    First French Seam.JPG

    On an original Monarch inside sleeve:
    Monarch Inside Sleeve French Seam.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
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  7. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

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    how much is it to custom made this jacket ?
     
  8. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    I'm not quoting that here Geeboo, this thread is about the making and the jacket itself. The price was between Dave and myself, Im not sure if that is the normal price so I dont feel comfortable listing a figure here. I would suggest you pm Maverickson if you need that info, which I'm sure he would gladly advise.
     
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  9. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

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    what zipper are you using ?
     
  10. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    I'll get back to you on it Geeboo, I've lost the link when we discussed this last year, have just asked Dave. I'm letting him run it pretty much how Monarch used to make, or would have made them in the day, the only choice I stipulated was the lining and the knit colour.

    Stay tuned..
     
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  11. Dr H

    Dr H Well-Known Member

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    Looking very nice, Matt. Look forward to seeing the completed jacket!

    I decided to go for something different/lighter that I can wear instead of my Journeyman/Brakeman in spring/normal summer weather. I’ve asked Dave to copy the 5-button Freewheelers Dust Bowl pattern (that I posted elsewhere on the Forum), but in mid brown goat.

    The lining will be similar to John’s civy jackets (dark grey Prince of Wales check), dark brown buttons, French seams throughout. Button cuffs (no storm cuffs), welted pockets (no flaps). Aside from the hide (the FW is Shinki), the key difference is that I’ve asked Dave to modify the collar (replace the collar knit with a more conventional collar/collar stand based on the Perry A-2 profile, which I particularly like - no snaps, but stitched to the rear in the same manner as an AN-J-3 with both zig zag and parallel lines). Not sure whether to incorporate a throat latch at this point (it looks great on the Brakeman, but this probably doesn’t need one).

    The FW Dust Bowl is based on a Monarch jacket, so it’s not such a stretch, but the lighter weight and conventional collar should make it wearable in a variety of situations.
     
  12. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Likewise Ian will be looking forward to seeing your new jacket when its complete. I figured you'd go the French Seams all over, having those machines he now has, sure makes it easier somewhat. He asked me, if I want them throughout but I declined, I think it would be too busy for a style like the ANJ. Yours on the other had I think it would certainly lend a level of style to an already stylish jacket. Certainly very hip you might say ;)

    If it was me I'd leave the throat latch off, it would look cleaner, but thats just my view, you will obviously have a reason for keeping it if you do. Never used the latches on A2's or any USN jacket, although I almost did on my BK ANJ the other day whilst driving with the tops off as it was desperately cold, but ended up just zipping it all the way and flipping the collar up with a high neck zippered sweater underneath, and that was enough. Guess I'm not doing 600 kph in a P-51 to warrant it really.

    You sir will have a jacket for all and every season.
     
  13. Dr H

    Dr H Well-Known Member

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    07EC8242-9E4C-4DF7-A070-0ECB779DFC3B.jpeg 89CE82DE-3E32-4493-A8AD-962346B2A66E.jpeg

    You’re right on both counts, Matt: the AN-J-3 would look odd without the rolled edges (French seams are a bit fussy for the style, whereas they work well on earlier ‘20s/‘30s patterns - I really liked them on my LVC Menlo Cossack).
    I’ll heed your advice and forego the latch. It doesn’t need one (it’s not designed to be a cold weather jacket as the Brakeman fills that niche with a blanket lining), whereas the latch on the FW Dust Bowl actually is the top button fastener below the varsity collar.
    Imagine a hybrid between the top two images and you’re about there...
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2018
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  14. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Its a Talon nickel M-43 with a Victory pin lock. Dave reckons being more a civvie style jacket it will be cool to do it that way, it will also be different from the zips on my other jackets. Im willing to go with his thoughts on all things Monarch
     
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  15. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

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    Mon.jpg Where should we go once MASH is running out of its existing M39 & M42 Nickel Talon ? Not to mention the non-existence brass M39 & M42 zipper
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2018
  16. D97x7

    D97x7 Active Member

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    Never realised it took six goat hides to make a jacket, hadn't really thought about it I suppose.
     
  17. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Nick, Thats an interesting observation I often wondered myself. Dave saw your post, and as to date is quite happy for me to copy and paste some of his comments in this build.

    quote:
    "It all depends on the size of the hides. In the case of yours they were more a medium size. To the panels Front right/left each take up an entire hide. As does the Large back panel. Then the lapels take another. Add in the sleeves which take up one per side. In the end, those size were just enough to squeak by with. On the other hand, I’ve had hides large enough to get by with 3 to 4.

    The design of your pending Monarch AN-J-3 is very close to the M-422 design. Arguably the least boxy design as compared with all other makers for WW-2 USN type jackets. The design of your Monarch comes from their 1943 contract & first Mil-SPec jacket following their pre War M-422 jacket.

    With the 1943 design they got rid of the over size jumbo collar, non integral to the lapel map pocket and extra stitch tracks in the back panel to name a few. But retained their super narrow wind flap and smaller size grommet vent and blackened map pocket snap. All subsequent contracts change those features.

    What I like with the zip choice is that the M-43 Talon with the Victory pin locking slider exactly date the jacket to the correct contract year. About the only thing we could have change was gone from the nickel model to the blackened brass. But then the nickel pin locking Victory zip would have been out of place." end quote
     
  18. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Dave's almost finished the jacket, here's some more pics of the lining etc. I've opted for a doubled over Rayon lining. I was going to opt for a quilted lining of some sort but because of the bi-swing back its a lot of extra work and may not work depending on how thick it is. Having the doubled over rayon makes it a little warmer, than just a single. Obviously this has taken more time to work out all the details etc, and extra 2 days to be exact, but with the new machine as pictured it makes it a lot easier and more accurate to stitch.

    The cylinder machine does things like collars, cuffs and sleeves. All much faster and a better product by far than doing it all with simply a flat bed machine.

    I'm by no means a jacket aficionado but Dave's work as seen here is a cut above, benchmark even.

    003-1.JPG

    005.JPG 007.JPG 008.JPG
     
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  19. B-Man2

    B-Man2 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like it’s progressing quite nicely . Can’t wait to see the finished product.
     
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  20. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Me too B, although I can't wait to wear it as well. ;)
     
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