LW Foster 7523(AER) wut ? plastic zip ? Yes Sir !!!

Discussion in 'Vintage' started by Tenfifteen, Jan 2, 2018.

  1. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    Just receive my new G1, a beautifull LW Foster (contract N383-22356A 42 Amend#2)

    This G1 have the tricky goal of replace my old Irvin B Foster 7823B (1963)

    Well... almost done

    First it fits me better ! size 42, just like the Irvin, but I always felt better with my Brill Bros than with the Irvin
    The LW is a 7823... don't know if there are much differences with the 7823B but It really feels different.
    The goatskin is fantastic ! Better than the Irvin, more supple, thin but a bit less supple than the Brill who is way more stretch.
    The USN stamp on the collar is still well visible.

    So... that's the good points...

    But many things has been changed for better and for worse.
    First, the collar. The new one has a good color.. thanks !
    The wrist/waist band are note original style (no rib-rack) I will change them like I did on the Irvin
    The linner is not original too...

    And the real big surprise... The Zipper !!!!!!

    Wait, is this ? Can't believe my eyes...... Yes.... a fabulous PLASTIC YKK zip ! Extremely well stitched, works really fine from botom to the top... BUT WHO WAS SICK ENOUGH TO DO THIS ?? :D:D


    Have you ever experienced some weird changes or ever had this kind of surprise?


    Anyway, this jacket was a bargain, it is clean, fine enough for everyday use and yes... I like it ;)


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  2. MikeyB-17

    MikeyB-17 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,948
    Location:
    Cornwall, UK
    Plastic zip? That’s got to go! That’s an early G-1, one of the first, and it merits a proper restoration. Replace the rib-rack, possibly the lining, but definitely the zip! It would have had a small tooth Conmar.
     
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  3. Tommy

    Tommy Active Member

    Messages:
    119
    My 55J14 came with (what I can only guess was a replacement) talon and a non ribrack (but very deep, if almost definitely replacement) waist knit. When Byson had it in to do some repairs, they described it as having been 'fixed up, by one of the less talented Quartermasters'! Fortunately they solved most of the issues apart from the waistband, which will be being done the next round of repairs.
     
  4. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2018
  5. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,233
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Can't see pics but I don't think we need to....
    Who made this? Do they not advertise a plastic zipper? That's just ridiculous as even an improper-tape metal zip is easily found. If tasked with replacing liners, knits, and zips on a new jacket I would rather just start over - NOT worth it. Plus, if all those details are incorrect how can I be convinced the pattern was even correct and not a modified mall jacket cut? Remember, "How you do some things is how you do everything!"
    I would be proud to send a message by returning it.
    JMO,
    Dave
     
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  6. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    dmar : the jacket was an eBay real bargain, I brought it knowing what I did.. If you could see the picture you would see that is clearly a 22356A Foster (pocket/neck/back stitching etc...)
    Sold in France by someone who didn't know anything about flight jackets, all the patches have been removed (name tag, etc...)
    Not all people are vintage military jacket addicts and don't care when they have to repair an old jacket ;) If it had been done in the rules of the art it would certainly have been sold four time the price ;)
     
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  7. johnwayne

    johnwayne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,312
    From what little I can see of the zipper it doesn't look plastic but take your word for it, also the lining looks pretty legit from the images - I'm looking particularly where the maker label and hanger are but again, I stand to be corrected on this. Otherwise it seems you have bagged yourself a bargain!
     
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  8. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    the lining is plain on the back, it doesn't have the stiching for the b-swing and for the back waist that is present on my Brill bros and Irvin B Foster. It also has little embroised patterns that make me think is has been replaced with whatever they found at the moment.

    For the plastic zipper, It is plastic ! No doubt, check the teeth on this picture.. anyway that would be the first thing I would change on this jacket !

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  9. veli1

    veli1 Member

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Croatia
    nice G1 you have there, I like the mouton color very much! i'm also in a process of purchasing a vintage G1 classic contract for myself...
     
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  10. johnwayne

    johnwayne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,312
    Ah yes, pretty clear now, I can even see the original stitch holes, sacrilege for sure and worth stressing to whoever does the replacement to see if they can hit the original holes, I don't think it's impossible from what I've read here before. Eastman replaced a Talon with a Crown for me on a 1401p A2 a few years ago and you would never have known it on inspection! Yes poss as it was one of theirs originally perhaps easier than a 50-60 year old jacket but you can only try!!
     
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  11. Tommy

    Tommy Active Member

    Messages:
    119
    Am I alone in not being able to see any of the pictures?
     
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  12. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    Just changed the Cuff and waist, and found a Conmar zipper from MASH (need to die a bit)


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    Better with original cuff/waist !

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  13. dmar836

    dmar836 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,233
    Location:
    Kansas, USA
    Tutorial time?
     
  14. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    I do NOT want to disrespect the work of some on this forum ;) ! It is very far from being great art, nor representative of a corect sewing work. I just paid a lot of attention to using the existing holes, the leather is very fragile in some places because of the many stitching of old replacements. For knitwear, I did like my other G1, it takes a lot of time but I don't want to cut the weakened leather with a sewing machine :D For the zipper, on the other hand, I think give it to a specialist, it must be sewn perfectly right and if I do it by hand I will spend days!
     
  15. Maverickson

    Maverickson Active Member

    Messages:
    351
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Hi All,

    With regard to attaching a new zip to jacket and for the most part used by me when doing my own work or done on a upper end jacket I like to reattach a zipper using a double needle technique. By attaching a zip this way I am able to reuse 100% of the existing or original holes both front and back. Understand that attaching a zip using this method is very time consuming as compared to doing it via machine. Not to mention, not nearly as cost effective as machine work. On the other hand, when done using double needles and if done correctly it looks as close to an original installation as one can get.


    Add into the mix that once a jacket's zip track has been machine stitched more than once it becomes more and more difficult to follow the original holes. Not to mention, multiple stitch tracks detract from the looks of any jacket and ultimately the over all value of any vintage garment.

    Currently, finishing up my now ten year old project of duplicating my late Father's original 1954 issue Cagleco G-1 flight jacket. While at it one of the upgrades I took upon myself to do was realign the zipper. Originally it's zip assembly was very poorly aligned from the factory. All resulting in plenty of unnecessary abrasion to the leather at both the connection point and the leading edge of the folded leather along the zip track. Not to mention increased wear to the fabric tape at the male insert. On a USN type jacket I like to have the free portion of the tooth that is not connected to the fabric tape seen extended past the leather fold along a zip track. In addition, the connection points turn out ever so slightly. Otherwise you get into a situation I refer to as an inset or crowded zip track. See a before and after pic on the work done to my latest project below.


    Note, the back side of this zip track looks equally as good as the front. Something that can not be duplicated with a machine stitch.

    Sometime back I did a thread on doing this same work in the How To Section http://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/double-needled-california-sportswear.7180/. Albeit the pix have subsequently going missing.

    Cheers, Dave
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2018
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  16. Tenfifteen

    Tenfifteen Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Cachan, France
    Thanks a lot Dave !! that's a real mine of information !
    I think i'm going to try this !

    For your old thread, the pix are still there ;) just use the "Photobucket Hotlink Fix" extension for Chrome !
     

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