OK, so I said what the hey and dropped $320 on a Cockpit 37J1. I am not sorry I did, and one can only expect so much from CPT, but I did NOT get $320 worth of jacket. I look good in my 37J1 and it fits me well. None of the fashionista downsizing you see in flight jackets these days - XL is a true 46-48, measuring the man, not the garment. But it is not a good substitute for the replica 37Js from the Far East that are never made in sizes past L. First off, the Bedford cord used by CPT is barely worth the name. It is a much flatter, looser weave than most such fabric, grained sideways instead of up and down, and it soaks up water like a dishrag. Typical Bedford will bead water for at least a brief drizzle, even if not water-treated. My Orvis deck jacket does this and it didn't cost half what this 37J did. It makes the jacket significantly less practical than it could be. Second, the liner. Nylon is fine, but why is there jungle camouflage anywhere on a 1930s jacket? It says "We don't feel good about this style so we're hokeying it up." Another sign of lack of confidence in product: the super low cut (1 3/4") collar. It's barely useful when up, and it will never stay down. Why do it this way? Like the ersatz Bedford cord, it is a move away from practicality. This is a good jacket, but could have been more faithful AND more practical for the money. CPT boasts MADE IN USA - no less than FOUR tags inside the jacket say so, and a fifth is looped on with a keychain - and that is a good thing, but then they f*** it up. I guess because they can.