dinomartino1
Well-Known Member
How to date US military clothing and G-1 jackets from the label.
I have done this to make an easy to find guide by using the forums search function.
For fact checking I have edited the thread to show the sources of information highlighted in red.
G-1 contract dates
From Roger Moore's old jacket website, some of it is archived on wayback machine
Roger Moore AN-6552 Collection
The AN-6552 jackets were originally designed to be a joint service (Navy, Marine Corps, Army Air Corps) jacket to replace the Navy/USMC M-422A and AAC A-2. These jackets were made for only a six month period in 1943 by American Sportswear, Bogen & Tanenbaum, Monarch, Willis and Geiger, and H&L; Block. While H&L; Block made a good number of M-422A jackets, it is thought that they made very few AN-6552 jackets making them among the raresr of an already scarce group.
AN-6552 jackets exhibit several unique characteristics which are worth describing. First, as a joint service jacket a "USN" stencil used on M-422A and later G-1 jackets is replaced with a "US" stencil. Second, the AN-6522 series used a black painted main zipper, however, the other manufacturers typically used a nickel zip while Block chose a brass Talon (B&T; used a brass Conmar). The subsequent AN-J-3a jackets look identical to the AN-6552; the only sure way to tell the difference is by the label in the neck.
Roger Moore G-1, Spec 55J14 Collection
As noted above the first G-1 spec was the 55J14 which was manufactured from 1947 to 1961. These jackets very collectible and only slightly less desireable than the earlier M-422A jackets. The 55J14 typically have shorter bodies than the M-422A and many have a snugger fit for their stated size. All of these jackets retain the painted "USN" stencil under the mouton collar.
Roger Moore G-1 Spec MIL-J-7823(AER) Collection
In 1951 or thereabouts the MIL spec jackets were introduced starting with the MIL-J-7823(AER). All of the jackets in the 1950s, save the 1951 55J14, had this specification. As with the earlier jackets the manaufacturers apparently were given much leeway in the cut and sizing of these jackets. It is interesting to note that even among the same contrcat and manufacturer there was often large differences in sizing so if you buy one of these to wear...make sure you check the measurements!
Roger Moore G-1 Spec MIL-J-7823A Collection
In 1961 the A (MIL-J-7823A) series jacket was introduced and only two manufacturers had contracts: Ralph Edwards Sportswear and Irvin B. Foster. The A series is the scarcest of 7823 series and are noted for having awesome goatskin and collars that fade to a nice honey rust color.
Roger Moore G-1 Spec MIL-J-7823B Collection
In late 1961 the B series was introduced and lasted until the end of 1963. The 1961 B series is probably one of the hardest 7823 jackets to find.
Roger Moore G-1, Spec MIL-J-7823C Collection
In 1964 the C series (7823C) was introduced and lasted until the end of 1967. These are often considered by collectors to be the last of the "good" jackets as they are the last to universally have the motoun collar. In addition, the early C series jackets used the traditional single ply rib rack waistband but some of the laters Cs and all of the Ds and Es use the inferior folded over two ply waistband.
Roger Moore G-1, Spec MIL-J-7823D Collection
In 1968 the D series was introduced and many (but not all) had a fake fur collar instead of the mouton used in all of the earlier jackets. The jackets were still goatskin but are very common and therefore not all that collectible
I have done this to make an easy to find guide by using the forums search function.
For fact checking I have edited the thread to show the sources of information highlighted in red.
G-1 contract dates
- MIL-J-7823E (AS) 1971
- MIL-J-7823D (WP) 1966
- MIL-J-7823C (WEP) 1962
- MIL-J-7823B (WEP) 1960
- MIL-J-7823A (AER) 1961
- MIL-J-7823 (AER) 1951
- 55J14 (AER) 1947
- AN-J3A 1943
- AN 6552 1943
- M-422A 1940
- M-422 1940
- The first Navy designation of "G-1" came under the 55J14 specification.
From Roger Moore's old jacket website, some of it is archived on wayback machine
Roger Moore AN-6552 Collection
The AN-6552 jackets were originally designed to be a joint service (Navy, Marine Corps, Army Air Corps) jacket to replace the Navy/USMC M-422A and AAC A-2. These jackets were made for only a six month period in 1943 by American Sportswear, Bogen & Tanenbaum, Monarch, Willis and Geiger, and H&L; Block. While H&L; Block made a good number of M-422A jackets, it is thought that they made very few AN-6552 jackets making them among the raresr of an already scarce group.
AN-6552 jackets exhibit several unique characteristics which are worth describing. First, as a joint service jacket a "USN" stencil used on M-422A and later G-1 jackets is replaced with a "US" stencil. Second, the AN-6522 series used a black painted main zipper, however, the other manufacturers typically used a nickel zip while Block chose a brass Talon (B&T; used a brass Conmar). The subsequent AN-J-3a jackets look identical to the AN-6552; the only sure way to tell the difference is by the label in the neck.
Roger Moore G-1, Spec 55J14 Collection
As noted above the first G-1 spec was the 55J14 which was manufactured from 1947 to 1961. These jackets very collectible and only slightly less desireable than the earlier M-422A jackets. The 55J14 typically have shorter bodies than the M-422A and many have a snugger fit for their stated size. All of these jackets retain the painted "USN" stencil under the mouton collar.
Roger Moore G-1 Spec MIL-J-7823(AER) Collection
In 1951 or thereabouts the MIL spec jackets were introduced starting with the MIL-J-7823(AER). All of the jackets in the 1950s, save the 1951 55J14, had this specification. As with the earlier jackets the manaufacturers apparently were given much leeway in the cut and sizing of these jackets. It is interesting to note that even among the same contrcat and manufacturer there was often large differences in sizing so if you buy one of these to wear...make sure you check the measurements!
Roger Moore G-1 Spec MIL-J-7823A Collection
In 1961 the A (MIL-J-7823A) series jacket was introduced and only two manufacturers had contracts: Ralph Edwards Sportswear and Irvin B. Foster. The A series is the scarcest of 7823 series and are noted for having awesome goatskin and collars that fade to a nice honey rust color.
Roger Moore G-1 Spec MIL-J-7823B Collection
In late 1961 the B series was introduced and lasted until the end of 1963. The 1961 B series is probably one of the hardest 7823 jackets to find.
Roger Moore G-1, Spec MIL-J-7823C Collection
In 1964 the C series (7823C) was introduced and lasted until the end of 1967. These are often considered by collectors to be the last of the "good" jackets as they are the last to universally have the motoun collar. In addition, the early C series jackets used the traditional single ply rib rack waistband but some of the laters Cs and all of the Ds and Es use the inferior folded over two ply waistband.
Roger Moore G-1, Spec MIL-J-7823D Collection
In 1968 the D series was introduced and many (but not all) had a fake fur collar instead of the mouton used in all of the earlier jackets. The jackets were still goatskin but are very common and therefore not all that collectible
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