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I believe that depended upon the manufacturer, for that collar flap and sleeve gusset detail. ATF uses original jackets for their patterning, and are very accurate.
Thanks Andrew. That is interesting the top and bottom of the collar are seamed like that. Much more obvious it was intentioal. Could have been economy of citting, like three piece sleeves.
You would think there might be more info on this variant. Yours must have been issued and not just a...
I don't know that Spiewak has its own factory anymore and as with many jacket 'makers' these days that may have been made by Schott for Spiewak
You can always source mouton and have it changed